In which we explore Kangerlussuaq Fjord on land and sea, greet friends old and new, swim in the waters and bask in glory of being alive and present in such a staggeringly wild and beautiful place. Teddy proves her worth time and time again, and a steel hull is lodged firmly in my list of … Continue reading Greenland #2 – explorations, observations and reflections →

In which I remain aboard Teddy for the East Coast of Greenland, sailing through foggy iceberg fields, exploring poorly charted fjords, finding legendary anchorage(s), and reveling in the sublime at every turn. The math checked out, I could stay aboard for Greenland and jump ship as Teddy passed Iceland en route to Clifden, with one … Continue reading Greenland #1 – across to Kangerlugssuaq Fjord →

In which we navigate the Northwest coast in sub-optimal visibility, enjoy the culinary offerings of the Icelandic nearshore, and conduct some unorthodox bathymetric surveys in the Westfjords. Fumbling through the fog We pulled into Siglufjörður primarily to find a plumber. We'd been plagued by a blockage in the head since reaching Iceland, and various iterations of … Continue reading Snapshots from Iceland #2 →

In which we hop from bay to fjord around the East and North of Iceland, depart for Jan Mayan more than once, break things, fix things, and officially cross the arctic circle. Attempt(s) for Jan Mayen Jan Mayen is a small volcanic island under Norwegian jurisdiction. Located at 71 N, this was planned to be … Continue reading Snapshots from Iceland #1 →

In which we leave Ireland astern, heading north towards the Faroe Islands and ultimately Iceland. The contrast between a cruiser and a racer's mindset is brought into sharp focus, fishing is attempted, helio-geometric observations are enjoyed, and darkness is left in our wake. At 0800, 20th of June, we raise the anchor under a warming … Continue reading Clifden to Djupivogur – into the midnight sun →

In which we sail Teddy from Baltimore to Clifden, up the west coast of Ireland, with French chef stowaway on board. I'm introduced to the dark arts of self steering via sail balance, and fall head over heels (pitchpole, if you will) in love with the ketch life. The Irish summer dismally fails to live … Continue reading Dr Kats and the West Coast or: how I learned to stop helming and love the ketch →

In which I meet the lovely Teddy, alongside a host of other characters, in the most interesting boatyard I’ve ever set foot in. Pre-reading forecast: a high chance of technical yacht geekery, with showers of anthropomorphic romanticism. It’s not my fault. I’ve been reading a lot of Moitessier lately. After a sleep on the floor … Continue reading Hegarty’s Boatyard – industrious, inspired, idyllic →

I've spent the last couple of weeks in the Portsmouth area, largely focused on the RORC Myth of Malham race. This England place ain't so bad; the weather's been superb and the sailing scene is great, a lot of yachting and wider maritime history in this area. After a day wandering the marinas and boatyards … Continue reading Portsmouth – Solent sailing and the Myth of Malham →

WARNING: graphic images included below. I'm not made for hot climates. Just over three months ago I was happily working outside at Scott Base, Antarctica, and now I am in the humid high 30's, with overnight lows as comfortable as 27⁰C. My mis-adaption to these climes is crystallised in the salt deposits accumulating on my … Continue reading Course confirmation, chaotic Quiapo, and confronting celebrations →